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Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing enormous golden pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Kids relax in a rock pool acting as sea nymphs, meanwhile adjacent rests a chatting legume in a showcase, alongside a imposing stack of bedding. It embodies the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s highly cherished storytellers. I'm visiting this Danish town, situated in Funen in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to investigate the writer's lasting influence in his birthplace a century and a half after his demise, and to discover a couple of enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s exhibition space dedicated to the writer, including his childhood house. An expert explains that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but Thumbelina were absent. For tourists who come to Odense in search of storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of downtown Odense, rerouting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to reimagine how the renowned native could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the structure. The remarkable wooden museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to build a place where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we talk like Andersen: with humour, satire and viewpoint,” says the representative. The landscape design take this approach: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a goal accomplished by thoughtful gardening, playing with elevation, size and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

He authored two and a half memoirs and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The museum adopts this philosophy to heart; frequently the perspectives of his companions or snippets of correspondence are displayed to subtly challenge the author’s own version of incidents. “Andersen is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” says the representative. The result is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and creations, thought processes and best-loved tales. It’s thought-provoking and fun, for adults and children, with a additional lower-level imaginary world, the fictional village, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the actual city, the small city of the municipality is delightful, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the traffic lights display the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, brass footprints provide a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this focus peaks with the annual Andersen celebration, which honors the writer's impact through art, dance, theatre and melodies.

This year, the multi-day celebration had hundreds of events, most of which were free. As I explore the city, I come across painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an author double sharing tales. I hear feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an amazing late-night performance including athletic artists lowering from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Upcoming events in the coming months are lectures, hands-on activities and, broadening the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

Each wonderful magical places deserve a castle, and Fyn features numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Like most of Denmark, bicycles are the ideal method to navigate in this town and a “cycling highway” meanders through the downtown area. From my accommodation, I ride to the free port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a route around Stige Island, a tiny landmass joined by a bridge to the larger island. City residents picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment fishing, aquatic activities or bathing.

Back in the city, I visit a local eatery, where the food selection is derived from the writer's motifs and tales. The literary work the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and manager the restaurateur shares excerpts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience commonplace in my visit, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it feels as though storytelling is constantly on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent enchanted locations require a fortress, and the island features 123 castles and stately homes across the island. Going on excursions from town, I visit Egeskov Palace, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. While much of it are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his spouse, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I wonder if she would notice a pea through a pile of {mattresses